DISCUSSION - Performance Brakes

Some info for u all:

99.9% of the vehicles manufactured in the last 25 or so years are equipped with power-assisted hydraulic braking systems. They apply force from one point (brake master cylinder), to other points (brake calipers & drums), using an incompressible fluid (brake fluid). Factory systems normally consist of disk brakes in the front and either drum or disk brakes in the rear, depending on your rides factory trim level. Roughly 70% of stopping power is provided by the front brakes alone! That's a tall order to fill considering the amount of kinetic energy stored in a 2,500+ pound mass of metal booking down the highway! So, with some of the basics explained let's rundown the major players in your braking system and explore where the greatest room for improvement lies.

The first and most basic brake system upgrade is a performance slotted or cross-drilled rotors, and performance brake pad combination. Heat is the primary cause of ineffective braking. Factory rotors and pads will do for everyday driving (if you drive like your grandmother), but as speed and brake demand increases, your comfort level will change fast. A "boundary layer" of super hot gasses can build up between the pad and rotor surfaces. This will severely impair braking performance increasing stopping distance, slowing brake response and make the brake pedal feel "squishy". This condition is commonly referred top as "brake fade". Performance brake rotors are available in either a slotted or cross-drilled design. These designs create a path for the heat and gasses to exit the rotor, cooling the surface temperature more quickly. Performance brake pads are built with materials designed to hold up to extreme heat and friction much better and last longer than basic OEM and aftermarket stock replacement pads. They are available in several different compounds for anything from a simple daily driver, to a full race Honda Challenge Integra.

All right ya'll, with the rotor and pad basics covered let's move on. As I mentioned before, your braking system is hydraulic (operated by the movement of fluid). When you step on the brake pedal to slow your roll, your pushing brake fluid through the hydraulic system to the calipers/drums forcing them into motion. This simple action causes the pressure levels in the system to skyrocket! This sudden pressure increase is easily handled by the hard lines that run to each wheel well. From there the hard lines and brake calipers/drums are connected by a rubber hose that allows for suspension travel and steering movement. This is where the weakness lies! Rubber brake lines expand under pressure ("line swell") wasting some of the hydraulic energy on it's way from the hard lines to the calipers/drums. This decreases effective braking power, slows braking response, and causes a "soft pedal" feel. The older the lines, the worse the problem can be.

When you're having those old, weak rubber brake lines replaced you have the perfect opportunity to change out the lifeblood of the hydraulic brake system...the brake fluid. The lines are off and the system is dry, it's a no brainer! This is by far the most neglected component. We all check the brake fluid reservoir and add when it's needed, but few have ever changed it. Recommended drain & fill intervals from most manufacturers is 12 - 24 months! It not only transfers pressure, but it lubricates all of the braking system internals, including ABS systems.

One of the most important characteristics of brake fluid is its boiling point. Heat from hard working brakes radiates directly to the brake fluid. If the fluid boils air, bubbles are created in the system robbing its ability to transmit force. Guess what that means class... anyone? anyone? Bueller...? It means you crash into whatever's in front of you at that time and get a face full of airbag! Do yourself, your ride, your passengers and the driver in front of you a favor and change out that nasty OEM brake fluid with one better suited for your needs. And yes, the chicks dig brakes, too. Motul DOT 5.1 is long life, 100% synthetic brake fluid that's specifically designed for hydraulic braking systems (also works perfectly in hydraulic clutch systems). It provides one of the highest boiling point specs of all grades of brake fluid and superior protection of the brake and ABS system internals. It's also mixable with lesser grade DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluids for those who just need a top-off for now

IN SHORT: Brakes seem to be one of those things that don't get any attention until they're dying. Your ride and your safety are just too important to think that way! On the installometer scale of 1 to 10, brake mods get a 9 just because of the consequences if done incorrectly. If you've got some experience and feel comfortable, go for it, you'll save a bunch of cash! Peace Out!!

waa so many words...

holaa..
shamiin : thanx for da info..

waa so many words... hehe.. thanx 4 d info..

feninglah fening.......

I'm sure we can use parts frm other models & makes, rite? So, can any sifus out there list'em out? I'd be nice if we could install (for instance) those big calipers and slotted rotors straight frm R33, R32, Type-Rs, EVOs or Imprezas to our Vivis. Some tips sharing might be useful, he he...

QAM**** wrote:

I'm sure we can use parts frm other models & makes, rite? So, can any sifus out there list'em out? I'd be nice if we could install (for instance) those big calipers and slotted rotors straight frm R33, R32, Type-Rs, EVOs or Imprezas to our Vivis. Some tips sharing might be useful, he he...

holaa..
qam : to me if u got da money anything can do..yes u can install it at our vivis..there one of ma fren used brembo EVO7 on his vivis..but the only thing is 'tapak' quite difficukt to make..if u can find onexpert to install it..itz may not too difficult..arios..

EzD:

Since we can use calipers frm other japanese makes w/o having to do any mod, then, can i buy the caliper set of those specific models, rite? I heard someone is using Prelude front calipers, dunno any mods needed or not leh? I'm reluctant in modding the tapak, what if it breaks or comes off during hard braking, he he, better don't risk lah.... i takut mati...

EzD:

Forgot to thank you for coming to my rescue everytime i post a question. CHEERS!!!

topic closed.

Thanks & regards,
Apish
MOD